Sonoran Property Inspections

Home Inspections Prescott, Prescott Valley, Cottonwood, Scottsdale, Arizona

Home Inspection – Termites

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When you schedule your home inspection with Sonoran Property Inspections, we will ask if you want a separate termite inspection done on the home, and we will set that up for you. We thought we would give you a little information about termites – oh, those almost invisible little subterranean pests!  In the Phoenix area they are more of a threat than in the Prescott area. Either way, we encourage you to get this add-on inspection done just so you know what you are dealing with.

Termites are considered Arizona’s number one urban pest. As a homeowner, you may encounter termites at sometime or other. If you find termites in your home, it’s important not to panic. These small animals take a very long time, often years before structural damage is present in the home.Therefore, the information provided here is to enable you to make intelligent decisions regarding termite management options. It’s important to contact several pest management professional (PMP’s) for estimates. If you already have a pest control service you may want to contact them for an estimate. Attempting to control termites on your own is not recommended.
Termites are small animals found primarily in the tropical regions of the world, where they play a role in the recycling wood and other cellulose-based materials. Termites are in a group of insects, which alone comprise the order Isoptera (iso-ptera = “equal-winged”). They are so named because the primary reproductive adults usually referred to as “swarmers”, have two pairs of equal length wings. There are currently approximately 2,761 named termite species in 282 genera worldwide. About 45 species occur in the continental United States with nearly 30 causing damage to wood and wood products. At least seventeen species of  termites occur in Arizona, but only three species are considered to be of any significant economical importance.
In Arizona, dampwood and drywood termites are not wide spread problems but can be under certain conditions. Subterranean termites on the other hand are
considered one of our major urban pests.
Signs of Infestation
 
Hire a qualified InterNACHI inspector to inspect for termites or other wood-destroying organisms. Generally, the first sign of infestation is the presence of swarming termites on the window or near indoor light. If they are found inside the house, it almost always means that they have infested. Other signs that may be found are termite wings on window sills or in cobwebs, and shelter tubes, which are tunnels constructed by the termites from soil or wood and debris. Usually, wood damage is not found at first, but when it is found, it definitely reveals a termite infestation. Anywhere wood touches soil is a possible entry into a home for termites. Examine wood which sounds dull or hollow when struck by a screwdriver or hammer. Inspect suspected areas with a sharp, pointed tool, such as an ice pick, to find termite galleries or their damage.
 
Control
 
Control measures include reducing the potential infestation, preventing termite entry, and applying chemicals for remedial treatment. We will not get into treatment options here, but your pest control company will help you with your options. So when you need a home inspection, don’t forget to get the termite inspection done at the same time. We will look for obvious signs, but the specialists will do a more thorough inspection and issue you a separate report and treatment options if they are needed.
 
Inspection
 
Inspect thoroughly to determine if there is an infestation, damage, and/or conditions that could invite a termite attack, or the need for remedial control measures. The tools and equipment needed for an inspection include a flashlight, ice pick or sharp-pointed screwdriver, ladder, and protective clothing. Always hire an InterNACHI inspector for your inspection needs, as they are trained by the highest standards in the inspection industry. As always, let us know if we can help!

Fireplace Safety

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It is FINALLY starting to cool off here in Prescott, Arizona!  As a home inspector (providing inspections in the Prescott area as well the Phoenix metro area) I see some fireplaces used in an unsafe manner. So I wanted to use this time to help educate you on what you should and shouldn’t use your fireplaces for, and what type of fireplace fuel is best. Stay safe this holiday season!

Fireplaces and wood stoves are designed to burn only one type of fuel. Used as all-purpose incinerators, these devices can pose the following hazards:

  • Harmful vapors can vent into the living space. Even the most efficient fireplaces will vent directly into the living space while they’re opened and closed for cleaning and refueling, exposing everyone in the house to potentially dangerous fumes.Firewood drying out in the sun
  • Harmful vapors will vent to the outdoors. Most newer fireplaces and wood stoves do an excellent job of funneling smoke and fumes to the outdoors, but the problem doesn’t end there; this pollution persists, contaminating household and environmental air.
  • Burning inappropriate fuel can cause mechanical damage. Chimneys can become lined with residue from inappropriate items, which may lead to a dangerous chimney fire. The fumes from certain items will quickly wear out sensitive components, such as catalytic combustors in wood stoves.

Read the following guidelines to better understand what can and cannot be safely burned in a residential fireplace or wood stove.

What can be burned in a fireplace?

  • dried, cut firewood. An adequate fuel supply will consist of a mixture of hardwoods, such as maple and oak, and softwoods, such as fir and pine. Softwoods ignite quickly and are useful in the early stages of the fire, while hardwoods provide a longer-lasting fire, and are best used after preheating the chimney. Despite the different burning characteristics of hardwoods and softwoods, which can be attributed to differences in density, the heat-energy released by burning wood is the same, regardless of species. To dry out wood, it should be stacked in an open area so the sun can warm the pieces and the breezes can carry away the moisture. Poplar, spruce and other softwoods generally dry quickly, as do wood that has been split small. Adequately seasoned wood has a moisture content of less than 20%, which can be checked using the following indicators:
    • The wood has darkened from white or a cream color to yellow or grey.
    • There are cracks or checks in the end grain.
    • A hollow sound is produced when two pieces of wood are banged together.
    • You can split a piece and feel if the new surface is damp or dry.
    • The wood does not hiss while burning.
    • You can check its moisture content with a moisture meter.Used pallets burn efficiently, but you must be sure they are free from chemical treatment
  • pallets. Generally, pallets are safe to burn in fireplaces, although those that are treated with the fumigant methyl bromide (labeled with the initials MB) are unsafe to burn. Also, pallets may have been exposed to a variety of chemicals while they were in use. Aside from these concerns, pallets produce a hot flame because they’re usually very dry and their segments are thin. Be careful to check for nails while cutting pallets, as they may damage a saw blade. You may also wind up with nails in your ash, which should be disposed of far from roads and driveways.
  • fallen tree limbs. These can generally be collected and used for kindling, provided they have been given time to dry.
  • wood collected from housing developments. If it is truly trash and not someone’s property (including the housing contractor’s), using scavenged wood that has been cleared away for housing developments is good for burning.  Try to obtain it before the non-lumber grade wood is pushed into massive piles and burned as a means of disposal by the contractor.
  • fire logs. These artificial logs burn relatively cleanly and release less ash than their natural wood counterparts.

What should never be burned in a fireplace?

  • painted wood. Paint contains heavy metals, such as lead, chromium and titanium, which are used to make the different colors. These metals, especially lead, can be toxic even in small quantities if inhaled. If you’re unsure if your paint has lead, be sure to consult with your InterNACHI inspector during your next scheduled inspection.
  • pressure-treated wood. Wood is commonly made resistant to fungus and insects through the addition of copper, chromate and arsenic, in a process known as CCA treatment. CCA treatment places roughly 27 grams of arsenic in every 12-foot 2×6, which is sufficient to kill about 250 adults, which is why it is illegal in the U.S. to burn pressure-treated wood. Vaporized CCA wood, known as fly ash, is extremely toxic; in one case, as reported by the American Medical Association, a family was stricken with seizures, hair loss, debilitating headaches, blackouts and nosebleeds from fly ash released when they unknowingly used CCA wood to burn in their fireplace. Even the family’s houseplants and fish succumbed to the toxic fumes.
  • plywood, particleboard, chipboard or OSB. These manmade woods release formaldehyde, and potentially hydrochloric acid or dioxin, when burned. Some states have outlawed the incineration of some or all of these artificial wood products.
  • rotted, diseased or moldy wood. This wood will not burn as long as normal wood, may produce bad smells when burned, and could bring insects into the house.
  • damp wood. Wood that has a moisture content higher than 20% will burn inefficiently and will contribute to a greater accumulation of creosote in the chimney, as well as air pollution.
  • allergenic plants.  Urushiol, which is the chemical that induces the typically minor allergic reaction when skin is exposed to poison ivy, poison sumac or poison oak, is far more dangerous when inhaled. Urushiol is not destroyed by fire and can quickly cause life-threatening respiratory distress if any of these plants are burned.
  • dryer lint. While it’s often used effectively as a fire-starter, lint can contain a wide array of dangerous chemicals that come from your clothes and fabric softener.
  • trash. Never burn household garbage, as it contains a range of potentially hazardous materials and chemicals that react in unpredictable ways when burned together. Newspaper ink, plastics, aluminum foil, plastic baggies, and whatever else constitutes your particular trash can create a deadly chemical cocktail.
  • driftwood. Wood found on the beach of an ocean or salty lake will release salt when burned, which will quickly corrode any metal and etch the glass of a wood stove or fireplace. Catalytic converters are especially vulnerable to salt corrosion. In addition to potential damage to the stove or fireplace, the EPA claims that driftwood releases toxic chemicals when burned.
In summary, use only approved and appropriate fuel to burn in your fireplace or wood stove, because certain items should never be burned because they can cause problems ranging from minor irritation to a hazardous health threat to your family.

Asbestos for a Prescott Home Inspection

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We were recently asked if we do asbestos testing for a buyer on a Prescott home inspection. Because it is a destructive testing procedure (ie – you need to scrape a sample and send off for testing, and it could become more lethal once disturbed), we are not able to do an actual test for it. However, there are certain items we can look for during home inspections that could be a red flag and make you aware of the potential dangers when buying a home. After 1980, asbestos was mostly banned and phased out of construction material, but homes in the 1980’s and 1990’s could still have materials containing asbestos. The following information may help buyers and sellers if there is a concern about asbestos in a home.
What is Asbestos?
Asbestos is a mineral fiber that can be positively identified only with a special type of microscope. There are several types of asbestos fibers. In the past, asbestos was added to a variety of products to strengthen them and to provide heat insulation and fire resistance.
 
How Can Asbestos Affect My Health?
From studies of people who were exposed to asbestos in factories and shipyards, we know that breathing high levels of asbestos fibers can lead to an increased risk of lung cancer in the forms of mesothelioma, which is a cancer of the lining of the chest and the abdominal cavity, and asbestosis, in which the lungs become scarred with fibrous tissue.

The risk of lung cancer and mesothelioma increase with the number of fibers inhaled. The risk of lung cancer from inhaling asbestos fibers is also greater if you smoke. People who get asbestosis have usually been exposed to high levels of asbestos for a long time. The symptoms of these diseases do not usually appear until about 20 to 30 years after the first exposure to asbestos.

Most people exposed to small amounts of asbestos, as we all are in our daily lives, do not develop these health problems. However, if disturbed, asbestos material may release asbestos fibers, which can be inhaled into the lungs. The fibers can remain there for a long time, increasing the risk of disease. Asbestos material that would crumble easily if handled, or that has been sawed, scraped, or sanded into a powder, is more likely to create a health hazard.

Where Can I Find Asbestos and When Can it Be a Problem?
Most products made today do not contain asbestos. Those few products made which still contain asbestos that could be inhaled are required to be labeled as such. However, until the 1970s, many types of building products and insulation materials used in homes contained asbestos. Common products that might have contained asbestos in the past, and conditions which may release fibers, include:
  • steam pipes, boilers and furnace ducts insulated with an asbestos blanket or asbestos paper tape. These materials may release asbestos fibers if damaged, repaired, or removed improperly;
  • resilient floor tiles (vinyl asbestos, asphalt and rubber), the backing on vinyl sheet flooring, and adhesives used for installing floor tile. Sanding tiles can release fibers, and so may scraping or sanding the backing of sheet flooring during removal;
  • cement sheet, millboard and paper used as insulation around furnaces and wood-burning stoves. Repairing or removing appliances may release asbestos fibers, and so may cutting, tearing, sanding, drilling, or sawing insulation;
  • door gaskets in furnaces, wood stoves and coal stoves. Worn seals can release asbestos fibers during use;
  • soundproofing or decorative material sprayed on walls and ceilings. Loose, crumbly or water-damaged material may release fibers, and so will sanding, drilling or scraping the material;
  • patching and joint compounds for walls and ceilings, and textured paints. Sanding, scraping, or drilling these surfaces may release asbestos fibers;
  • asbestos cement roofing, shingles and siding. These products are not likely to release asbestos fibers unless sawed, dilled or cut;
  • artificial ashes and embers sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces, and other older household products, such as fireproof gloves, stove-top pads, ironing board covers and certain hairdryers; and
  • automobile brake pads and linings, clutch facings and gaskets.
Where Asbestos Hazards May Be Found in the Home
  • Some roofing and siding shingles are made of asbestos cement.
  • Houses built between 1930 and 1950 may have asbestos as insulation.
  • Asbestos may be present in textured paint and in patching compounds used on wall and ceiling joints. Their use was banned in 1977.
  • Artificial ashes and embers sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces may contain asbestos.
  • Older products, such as stove-top pads, may have some asbestos compounds.
  • Walls and floors around wood-burning stoves may be protected with asbestos paper, millboard or cement sheets.
  • Asbestos is found in some vinyl floor tiles and the backing on vinyl sheet flooring and adhesives.
  • Hot water and steam pipes in older houses may be coated with an asbestos material or covered with an asbestos blanket or tape.
  • Oil and coal furnaces and door gaskets may have asbestos insulation.

What Should Be Done About Asbestos in the Home?

If you think asbestos may be in your home, don’t panic.  Usually, the best thing to do is to leave asbestos material that is in good condition alone. Generally, material in good condition will not release asbestos fibers. There is no danger unless the asbestos is disturbed and fibers are released and then inhaled into the lungs. Check material regularly if you suspect it may contain asbestos. Don’t touch it, but look for signs of wear or damage, such as tears, abrasions or water damage. Damaged material may release asbestos fibers. This is particularly true if you often disturb it by hitting, rubbing or handling it, or if it is exposed to extreme vibration or air flow. Sometimes, the best way to deal with slightly damaged material is to limit access to the area and not touch or disturb it. Discard damaged or worn asbestos gloves, stove-top pads and ironing board covers. Check with local health, environmental or other appropriate agencies to find out proper handling and disposal procedures. If asbestos material is more than slightly damaged, or if you are going to make changes in your home that might disturb it, repair or removal by a professional is needed. Before you have your house remodeled, find out whether asbestos materials are present.
How to Identify Materials that Contain Asbestos
You can’t tell whether a material contains asbestos simply by looking at it, unless it is labeled. If in doubt, treat the material as if it contains asbestos, or have it sampled and analyzed by a qualified professional. A professional should take samples for analysis, since a professional knows what to look for, and because there may be an increased health risk if fibers are released. In fact, if done incorrectly, sampling can be more hazardous than leaving the material alone. Taking samples yourself is not recommended. If you nevertheless choose to take the samples yourself, take care not to release asbestos fibers into the air or onto yourself. Material that is in good condition and will not be disturbed (by remodeling, for example) should be left alone. Only material that is damaged or will be disturbed should be sampled. Anyone who samples asbestos-containing materials should have as much information as possible on the handling of asbestos before sampling and, at a minimum, should observe the following procedures:
  • Make sure no one else is in the room when sampling is done.
  • Wear disposable gloves or wash hands after sampling.
  • Shut down any heating or cooling systems to minimize the spread of any released fibers.
  • Do not disturb the material any more than is needed to take a small sample.
  • Place a plastic sheet on the floor below the area to be sampled.
  • Wet the material using a fine mist of water containing a few drops of detergent before taking the sample. The water/detergent mist will reduce the release of asbestos fibers.
  • Carefully cut a piece from the entire depth of the material using a small knife, corer or other sharp object. Place the small piece into a clean container (a 35-mm film canister, small glass or plastic vial, or high-quality resealable plastic bag).
  • Tightly seal the container after the sample is in it.
  • Carefully dispose of the plastic sheet. Use a damp paper towel to clean up any material on the outside of the container or around the area sampled. Dispose of asbestos materials according to state and local procedures.
  • Label the container with an identification number and clearly state when and where the sample was taken.
  • Patch the sampled area with the smallest possible piece of duct tape to prevent fiber release.
  • Send the sample to an asbestos analysis laboratory accredited by the National Voluntary Laboratory Accreditation Program (NVLAP) at the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST). Your state or local health department may also be able to help.
How to Manage an Asbestos Problem
 
If the asbestos material is in good shape and will not be disturbed, do nothing! If it is a problem, there are two types of corrections: repair and removal. Repair usually involves either sealing or covering asbestos material. Sealing (encapsulation) involves treating the material with a sealant that either binds the asbestos fibers together or coats the material so that fibers are not released. Pipe, furnace and boiler insulation can sometimes be repaired this way. This should be done only by a professional trained to handle asbestos safely. Covering (enclosure) involves placing something over or around the material that contains asbestos to prevent the release of fibers. Exposed insulated piping may be covered with a protective wrap or jacket. With any type of repair, the asbestos remains in place. Repair is usually cheaper than removal, but it may make removal of asbestos later (if found to be necessary) more difficult and costly. Repairs can either be major or minor. Major repairs must be done only by a professional trained in methods for safely handling asbestos. Minor repairs should also be done by professionals, since there is always a risk of exposure to fibers when asbestos is disturbed.
Repairs 
 
Doing minor repairs yourself is not recommended, since improper handling of asbestos materials can create a hazard where none existed. If you nevertheless choose to do minor repairs, you should have as much information as possible on the handling of asbestos before doing anything. Contact your state or local health department or regional EPA office for information about asbestos training programs in your area. Your local school district may also have information about asbestos professionals and training programs for school buildings. Even if you have completed a training program, do not try anything more than minor repairs. Before undertaking minor repairs, carefully examine the area around the damage to make sure it is stable. As a general rule, any damaged area which is bigger than the size of your hand is not considered a minor repair.

Before undertaking minor repairs, be sure to follow all the precautions described previously for sampling asbestos material. Always wet the asbestos material using a fine mist of water containing a few drops of detergent. Commercial products designed to fill holes and seal damaged areas are available. Small areas of material, such as pipe insulation, can be covered by wrapping a special fabric, such as re-wettable glass cloth, around it. These products are available from stores (listed in the telephone directory under “Safety Equipment and Clothing”) which specialize in asbestos materials and safety items.

Removal is usually the most expensive method and, unless required by state or local regulations, should be the last option considered in most situations. This is because removal poses the greatest risk of fiber release. However, removal may be required when remodeling or making major changes to your home that will disturb asbestos material. Also, removal may be called for if asbestos material is damaged extensively and cannot be otherwise repaired. Removal is complex and must be done only by a contractor with special training. Improper removal may actually increase the health risks to you and your family.
Asbestos Professionals: Who Are They and What Can They Do?
Asbestos professionals are trained in handling asbestos material. The type of professional will depend on the type of product and what needs to be done to correct the problem. You may hire a general asbestos contractor or, in some cases, a professional trained to handle specific products containing asbestos.
Asbestos professionals can conduct inspections, take samples of suspected material, assess its condition, and advise on the corrections that are needed, as well as who is qualified to make these corrections. Once again, material in good condition need not be sampled unless it is likely to be disturbed. Professional correction or abatement contractors repair and remove asbestos materials.
Some firms offer combinations of testing, assessment and correction. A professional hired to assess the need for corrective action should not be connected with an asbestos-correction firm. It is better to use two different firms so that there is no conflict of interest. Services vary from one area to another around the country.
The federal government offers training courses for asbestos professionals around the country. Some state and local governments also offer or require training or certification courses. Ask asbestos professionals to document their completion of federal or state-approved training. Each person performing work in your home should provide proof of training and licensing in asbestos work, such as completion of EPA-approved training. State and local health departments or EPA regional offices may have listings of licensed professionals in your area.

If you have a problem that requires the services of asbestos professionals, check their credentials carefully. Hire professionals who are trained, experienced, reputable and accredited — especially if accreditation is required by state or local laws. Before hiring a professional, ask for references from previous clients. Find out if they were satisfied. Ask whether the professional has handled similar situations. Get cost estimates from several professionals, as the charges for these services can vary.

Though private homes are usually not covered by the asbestos regulations that apply to schools and public buildings, professionals should still use procedures described in federal or state-approved training. Homeowners should be alert to the chance of misleading claims by asbestos consultants and contractors. There have been reports of firms incorrectly claiming that asbestos materials in homes must be replaced. In other cases, firms have encouraged unnecessary removal or performed it improperly. Unnecessary removal is a waste of money. Improper removal may actually increase the health risks to you and your family. To guard against this, know what services are available and what procedures and precautions are needed to do the job properly.

In addition to general asbestos contractors, you may select a roofing, flooring or plumbing contractor trained to handle asbestos when it is necessary to remove and replace roofing, flooring, siding or asbestos-cement pipe that is part of a water system. Normally, roofing and flooring contractors are exempt from state and local licensing requirements because they do not perform any other asbestos-correction work.

Asbestos-containing automobile brake pads and linings, clutch facings and gaskets should be repaired and replaced only by a professional using special protective equipment. Many of these products are now available without asbestos.

If you hire a corrective-action contractor:

  • Check with your local air pollution control board, the local agency responsible for worker safety, and the Better Business Bureau. Ask if the firm has had any safety violations. Find out if there are legal actions filed against it.
  • Insist that the contractor use the proper equipment to do the job. The workers must wear approved respirators, gloves and other protective clothing.
  • Before work begins, get a written contract specifying the work plan, cleanup, and the applicable federal, state and local regulations which the contractor must follow (such as notification requirements and asbestos disposal procedures). Contact your state and local health departments, EPA regional office, and the Occupational Safety and Health Administration’s regional office to find out what the regulations are. Be sure the contractor follows local asbestos removal and disposal laws. At the end of the job, get written assurance from the contractor that all procedures have been followed.
  • Assure that the contractor avoids spreading or tracking asbestos dust into other areas of your home. They should seal off the work area from the rest of the house using plastic sheeting and duct tape, and also turn off the heating and air conditioning system. For some repairs, such as pipe insulation removal, plastic bags may be adequate. They must be sealed with tape and properly disposed of when the job is complete.
  • Make sure the work site is clearly marked as a hazardous area. Do not allow household members or pets into the area until work is completed.
  • Insist that the contractor apply a wetting agent to the asbestos material with a hand sprayer that creates a fine mist before removal. Wet fibers do not float in the air as easily as dry fibers and will be easier to clean up.
  • Make sure the contractor does not break removed material into smaller pieces. This could release asbestos fibers into the air. Pipe insulation was usually installed in pre-formed blocks and should be removed in complete pieces.
  • Upon completion, assure that the contractor cleans the area well with wet mops, wet rags, sponges and/or HEPA (high-efficiency particulate air) vacuum cleaners. A regular vacuum cleaner must never be used. Wetting helps reduce the chance of spreading asbestos fibers in the air. All asbestos materials and disposable equipment and clothing used in the job must be placed in sealed, leakproof, and labeled plastic bags. The work site should be visually free of dust and debris. Air monitoring (to make sure there is no increase of asbestos fibers in the air) may be necessary to assure that the contractor’s job is done properly. This should be done by someone not connected with the contractor.
Caution! 

Do not dust, sweep or vacuum debris that may contain asbestos. These actions will disturb tiny asbestos fibers and may release them into the air. Remove dust by wet-mopping or with a special HEPA vacuum cleaner used by trained asbestos contractors.

Relocating to Prescott? Tips to Make the Move More Eco-Friendly.

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As a Prescott area home inspector, I am here to help you prior to the big move into your new home, and having moved recently myself I know how stressfull and time-consuming a move can be! But rarely do we wonder about the impact the process has on the environment. This is amplified when moving to a smaller house or condominium, and additional decisions have to be made regarding items that must discarded in order to save space.  If we don’t make these decisions deliberately, our choices can generate a lot of trash, and waste energy and natural resources. Fortunately, we have other options so that, when the time comes, we can relocate — along with our stuff — responsibly.

Some measures to consider before moving day:

  • Buy less.  The less you accumulate, the less you will have to discard when it comes time to relocate. Also, fight the urge to be a pack rat by recycling and giving items away as they become obsolete to you. If you put off these decisions until the day you have to relocate, many of the things that you’re on the fence about keeping will likely end up in the trash because you’ll be too preoccupied by the move to put the effort into thoughtful and responsible disposal.
  • Discard items in a responsible manner, rather than merely throwing them away. Non-biodegradable trash doesn’t disappear; it just accumulates in new locations where it contaminates groundwater and soil, off-gasses methane and other greenhouse gases, and overwhelms otherwise useful land. By taking a few extra steps, you can save money, help others, and minimize your impact on the environment.
    • Recycle. With a minimum of effort, you can recycle old magazines and newspapers that you do not want to take with you to your new home. Glass, metal and plastics are also easily recyclable, and you will conserve some of the raw materials and energy required to produce these items by re-offering them. Many of the items you clean out from your home might be recyclable in your community curbside or drop-off recycling program. To determine what items you can recycle, contact your local environmental agency or waste-pickup service.
  • Sort through your belongings and decide what you don’t want to take with you, separating them into defined groups based on how best to dispose of them. For instance, separate your unwanted items that are in good working order, and can be reused by a friend or neighbor, from other items that require special disposal, such as hazardous chemicals or large, bulky items. See the following sections on how to identify items for reuse, recycling and special disposal.

Common recyclables include:

      • cardboard;
      • mixed paper;
      • newspapers;
      • glass bottles and jars;
      • plastic bottles and jugs; and
      • scrap aluminum and cans.

Many items can be dropped off for recycling at nearby locations, such as:

  • plastic grocery bags that are often accepted for recycling at grocery stores;
  • used electronics, such as cell phones and computers, which are collected for recycling at electronics stores, school vocational programs, and by municipal governments;
  • bulky consumer goods.  Your municipality, by special request or at designated times of the year, may collect appliances and other large discards, such as non-working refrigerators and broken furniture.
  • Sell.
    • Neighborhood yard sales are a fun way to get rid of items and make a little extra money.
    • Websites such as eBay, Craigslist and Freecycle provide ways to advertise online, often for free, in order to unload unwanted items.
    • Antiques can be cleaned and sold to antique and consignment shops.
  • Donate.  Try putting items on your curb with a “free” sign.  Or, take them to your local Salvation Army Store, ARC Store, DAV Store, Goodwill, women’s shelter and homeless shelter as the items lose their usefulness to you.  Keep a spare bag in the trunk of your vehicle, and take the reusable items that you run across out to your car.  Before you know it, you will have a full bag to drop off at a thrift store or a collection drive.  Charitable donations to many non-profit organizations are often tax-deductible. Popular donated items include:
    • clothing and footwear;
    •  bedding, curtains and towels;
    • some toiletries;
    • books and magazines, which can be donated to your local school, library, or community or senior center;
    • furniture;
    • kitchenware and small, working appliances;
    • consumer electronics;
    • unwanted entertainment items, such as CDs, DVDs and video games;
    • larger items, such as computers, and stoves and refrigerators;
    • vehicles; and
    • unopened food items, which will be accepted at food banks and shelters.
  • Hire an environmentally conscious moving company. When searching for a professional service, select a competent expert who is concerned about nature and takes active steps in employing environmentally sound practices. Ask the company:
    • Do they encourage the use of used boxes rather than insisting that each customer pay for new
      boxes? An environmentally conscious transporter should be happy to take the materials
      from you after your move to pass on to his or her next customer.
    • Are their vehicles fuel-efficient?  Ethanol-powered trucks are a bonus, although high mile-per- gallon diesel and gasoline trucks are positive choices, too.
    • Moving vehicles may also be fitted with devices that emit a sound to prevent animals from
      wandering into the road. It may seem trivial, but moving vehicles spend a long time on the
      road, and these devices can and do save the lives of many animals. In Australia, they use
      “hopper stoppers” to protect kangaroos.  In much of the rest of the world, deer are a bigger
      problem.
  • If you don’t use a professional moving company, be smart about boxes and packing materials. Rather than buying these items new, which unnecessarily adds to the expense of moving, find them used. In most cases, old boxes work just as well as new boxes. Liquor stores, grocery stores, hardware and other retail stores are usually happy to give away large cardboard boxes they no longer need and would have to otherwise discard or recycle. Calling around first will save you frustration and the emissions of driving around town to individual stores. You can also ask friends and neighbors if they have materials you can have or borrow. Moving boxes are also popular “freebies” on Craigslist. By following this tip, you will have reduced the number of trees that must be chopped down and boxes that must be manufactured. Also, by reusing boxes and packing material, you keep them out of landfills. When you are finished moving, keep the packing materials for future use, or pass them on.
  • Properly dispose of hazardous household items. While cleaning out and packing up the basement, garage or shed, you might run across some products such as cleaners, pesticides and paints, which are corrosive, flammable or otherwise dangerous to the environment and human health, if not disposed of properly. See if your community has special drop-off sites or holds periodic collection days for safe recycling and disposal of these products. Some stores offer free recycling for returned used goods at the point-of-purchase.

Common hazardous substances include:

    • cleaning supplies;
    • art and photographic supplies;
    • spent printer cartridges;
    • leftover paints, stains and varnishes;
    • light bulbs and fluorescent tubes;
    • spent batteries for laptops, digital cameras and other personal electronics;
    • old car batteries;
    • antifreeze;
    • used motor oil; and
    • pesticides and weed killer.

Also, beware of hazardous chemicals that may contain gasoline, oil or other toxins. Local environmental agencies across the country have set up programs for homeowners to trade in their old gasoline-powered lawnmowers and electric gardening equipment. Contact your local solid waste collection outfit or environmental agency to inquire about these programs.

In summary, relocation is often hectic and expensive, but it doesn’t have to damage the environment.  You can also take easy steps to pare down your material belongings and keep them out of the landfill by reducing, reusing and recycling.

 

What is Excellent Customer Service?

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At Sonoran Property Inspections we pride ourselves on not only providing a quality home inspection in Prescott, but also on excellent customer service. We have had real estate agents and their clients tell us that they appreciate the small things we do to make the process of home inspections better for them.

For some, the end goal is when a company “meets expectations”, and that is of course the cornerstone of any successful business. Before you can provide excellent customer service the basic expectations must be regularly met. So what makes customer service go to the next level?  Listening to the needs of the client, responding quickly, offering help over and above the initial need. In short, attention, action, and follow through. Sadly these three things are often missing in the service industry. Just trying to get a call back from some businesses is difficult. I don’t get it! Just call back and tell me you are too busy for more work, but have the courtesy to call back! Sorry for the brief rant, but I can’t tell you how this frustrates me, and I know you feel the same way.

So here is what you can expect from us:

  • We will answer your calls and emails – or if we are helping someone else at the time you call, we promise to return calls and emails within a few hours (not a few days!)
  • If you need a home inspection we will get you scheduled within the ten day time frame in almost all cases – even if it means working 7 days a week to make sure we can get it done.
  • We will schedule your termite inspections for you and you make just one payment to us and we pay the termite contractor. In the Phoenix area we will also schedule a pool inspection for you by a professional pool guy at no extra cost.
  • If you can’t make it to the review after the home inspection we will set up a time to talk to you about the report even if it is after hours. We want to make sure you fully understand the report and will answer all your questions.
  • Need to know who else to call to assist you? We can help with that too. Our job does not end once we deliver the report to you (same day reports by the way) – we are here to help you even after the inspection is done.

So, if you happen to be another service provider in the Prescott area, and you agree with me on the importance of customer service, I would love to hear from you. We are always looking for others that we can refer to a client when they need work done. Just another part of what we would call customer service – let us know if you agree. We’d love to help you.

Home Inspection of Windows

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Windows are one of the things that get looked at when we do a Scottsdale or Prescott home inspection for a buyer or seller. This evaluation of windows determines not only if they open and close properly, but also looks for issues like broken seals or other defects that may need to be addressed or looked at more closely. If you decide to replace defective windows either before or after the sale of the home, here are a few items that may help you understand what is best for you.

First of all, if you are the seller or the buyer and a home inspection reveals defective windows, don’t panic! The cost to repair or replace the window may not be all that bad, and the potential savings in energy even better.

The Potential Energy Payback

The U.S. Department of Energy estimates that the average household spends between $1,500 and $2,500 annually on energy bills, and attributes about 45% of the expense to heating and cooling. With a window replacement project, selecting the right windows can have significant impact not only on the price of the project, but also on the potential for cutting energy expenses, which is especially important for those who intend to remain in their homes for years after the project is completed.

But when it comes to replacement windows, one size does not fit all. Homeowners need expert guidance to select products that offer the best value for their budget, climate, and the orientation of their home with respect to sun and shade. They should also be careful to contract only with installers who are well trained, efficient, and guarantee their work.

Are Replacement Windows the Right Choice?

It’s important to first determine what type of window project is best for your home. Technically speaking, replacement windows are designed to fit inside an existing window frame so that the siding and trim needn’t be disturbed or replaced.

New-construction units have nailing fins and are designed for installation in a rough opening.

Installation of prime windows requires removal of siding and trim around the window, then restoration of the finishes once the window is in place.

If an existing window frame is relatively square and free of rot and other defects, replacement windows can work well and save lots of time and money. But if an existing window has shifted out of square or there are signs of moisture infiltration in the surrounding wall, the old window and surrounding finishes should be removed. This gives the installer a chance to inspect the framing, find and flash the infiltration source, add insulation where necessary, and seal the opening against water and air leakage.

Replacement Window Material Choices

Vinyl
Vinyl replacement windows are a popular choice due to their affordable cost and low transmission of heat and cold air through the frames. They require little or no maintenance, which should always be factored into the value proposition.

There’s wide variation in the quality of vinyl frames and sashes in the market. More dimensionally stable vinyl frames are extruded with matrices of reinforcing cells for greater strength, and have joints that are welded. These features improve the potential for weather-tightness, energy performance, and lasting attractiveness.

One note: Residents of historic districts and certain homeowners’ associations should be advised that vinyl replacement windows may be prohibited and should check with authorities before installing them.

Wood
Wood replacement windows are more expensive than vinyl but offer comparable heat/cold transmission ratings. Wood is a good choice for older, traditional homes and in districts where vinyl and metal are prohibited by code. Though wood frames require routine maintenance, the extra expense can usually be avoided with approved metal or vinyl cladding applied at the time of installation.

Composition or Fiberglass
Fiberglass replacement windows are comparable in price to wood windows, and they boast better dimensional stability than vinyl. They have inherently good heat/cold transmission resistance that can be augmented with foam insulation applied within voids in the extrusions. Fiberglass windows are available in an array of factory-applied colors that require no maintenance.

Aluminum
Aluminum replacement windows are relatively inexpensive but have poor thermal transmission characteristics, especially when frames are constructed without a thermal break. However, they may offer decent value with the right glazing in warm climates. Factory-applied finishes need no maintenance.

Glazing Choices

Along with selecting a frame and sash with high resistance to thermal transfer, the right glazing can have an enormous impact on a replacement window’s energy-saving performance and, therefore, its long-term value. Glass by itself is not a particularly good insulator, but most replacement window suppliers offer a number of glazing options that can double or triple energy performance, in comparison to single glazing.

Selecting Replacement Windows Based on Orientation

ENERGY STAR, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s program to help consumers and businesses conserve energy, makes some very specific recommendations for window U-value and SHGC ratings with respect to their orientation toward the sun:

In cold climates:

  • South-facing walls: Shaded windows should have a higher SHCG for more passive heat gain in winter and lower U-values to reduce heat loss. Unshaded south-facing windows should have lower SHGC to prevent excessive heat gain in summer.
  • East- and west-facing windows should have lower SHGC ratings.
  • North-facing windows should have the lowest U-value possible; SHGC ratings are unimportant.

In warm climates:

  • East-, west- and south-facing windows should have low SHGC and should be shaded to prevent excessive heat gain.
  • All windows should have low U-values to minimize heat loss and reduce air-conditioning loads.

Go by the Numbers

For guidance in selecting the best values in replacement windows, analyze and compare the ratings found on the NFRC/ENERGY STAR labels on the products offered within your budget range.

Lots of info here, sorry if it is overwhelming, but all windows are clearly not the same, so ask your local expert to help you, and then enjoy those new windows and hopefully the energy you will save in the long run.

What Really Matters in a Home Inspection

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Buying a home in the Prescott area?

The process can be stressful. A home inspection is supposed to give you peace of mind but, depending on the findings, it may have the opposite effect. You will be asked to absorb a lot of information from your inspector over a short period of time.  Your inspection will entail a written report, including checklists and photos, and what the inspector tells you during the inspection review. All of this combined with the seller’s disclosure and what you notice yourself can make the experience overwhelming. What should you do?

Relax!

Home inspectors are professionals, and as a certified member of InterNACHI, you can trust that we are among the most highly trained in the industry. Most of your inspection will be related to maintenance recommendations and minor imperfections. These are good to know about.

However, the issues that really matter will fall into four categories:

  1. major defects, such as a structural failure;
  2. conditions that can lead to major defects, such as a roof leak;
  3. issues that may hinder your ability to finance, legally occupy, or insure the home if not rectified immediately; and
  4. safety hazards, such as an exposed, live buss bar at the electrical panel.

Anything in these categories should be addressed as soon as possible. Often, a serious problem can be corrected inexpensively to protect both life and property (especially in categories 2 and 4).

Most sellers are honest and are often surprised to learn of defects uncovered during an inspection. It’s important to realize that a seller is under no obligation to repair everything mentioned in your inspection report. No house is perfect. Keep things in perspective.

And remember that homeownership is both a joyful experience and an important responsibility, so be sure to call on your InterNACHI Certified Professional Inspector® at Sonoran Property Inspections to help you devise an annual maintenance plan that will keep your family safe and your home in top condition for years to come.

Conserve Energy and Save Money

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In addition to doing home inspections in Prescott and Prescott Valley and parts of the Phoenix area, we also do home checks on vacation homes. I recently advised one of my clients that it was time to update the HVAC unit on their vacation home that I manage for them in Scottsdale. They noticed higher than normal bills recently, and while there HAS been a record breaking heat in the valley this summer, part of the problem for them is outdated equipment. This guide is primarily aimed at homeowners who are thinking of upgrading or replacing their home’s existing heating or cooling systems. It also contains useful information for people who are having a home built for them, and for those who want to reduce their energy consumption in general.

A Wise Choice
 
The options presented will help you to select heating and cooling systems that meet the needs of both your lifestyle and your checkbook. Besides the obvious savings for you that occur by lowering your consumption, by reducing demand for energy through conservation, or, in the case of electricity, from shifting consumption to times of lower demand, together we can lower the market price for the energy that is consumed. The advantages of investing in energy efficiency aren’t only felt within your family budget – they are realized in the cleaner environment that goes hand in hand with more efficient systems and the wise use of energy.


Before You Start
Putting an energy-efficient heating system into a drafty, poorly insulated house will reduce your energy bills. But you’ll notice a more dramatic savings and even make yourself more comfortable if you also make your entire house more energy-efficient. How? Here are some ideas:
  • Weatherstrip and caulk to seal air leaks. You may have to replace uncontrolled sources of air with designed sources to ensure proper ventilation.
  • Increase insulation levels where appropriate (such as in the attic and walls) to reduce heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer.
  • Open drapes on south-facing windows on sunny winter days so that the sun’s energy can help heat your home, and close them in summer to help keep your home cool.
  • Choose energy-efficient products when replacing windows and doors.
By making your house more energy-efficient, your heating and cooling systems will work less, and you may reduce the capacity needed when you replace your systems, which means more savings for you.
Choose the Right Equipment
In order to correctly size new heating and cooling equipment, your contractor must analyze how much heat is lost from your home in winter and gained in summer. Ask for this heat loss/gain analysis in writing, including the method used to perform the calculation. This calculation should take into consideration such factors as the size of the house, its level of insulation, and the condition of windows and doors. If the heat loss and gain is significant, and you haven’t already taken steps to increase the energy efficiency of the house, now is the time to do it.
Avoid the temptation to simply choose the same size equipment that already exists in your house without doing a heat loss/gain analysis. Your home has likely been altered over the years, and the system might even have been the wrong size at the start. An oversized unit will usually operate below peak efficiency, and both oversized and undersized units can adversely affect the comfort of your home. Any installation involving combustion equipment should include steps to ensure that there will be an adequate supply of air for combustion and venting, and that other air-exhausting equipment will not cause problems.
I am not going to go into detail about all the different types of units out there, or the SEER ratings… but I am more than happy to talk to you about these things if you care to give me a call.  In summary, homeowners can reduce their energy consumption by adopting the strategies offered in this guide and contacting an inspector who may be able to guide you in ways to conserve energy and save money.

Choosing the Right Home Inspector

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Buying a home in the Prescott area or north Scottsdale?  It’s probably the most expensive purchase you’ll ever make.  This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection.  The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the value of the home being inspected.  The additional cost of hiring an InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector®, like Jerry at Sonoran Property Inspections, is almost insignificant.
You have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages, and trying to get the best deals.  Don’t stop now.  Don’t let anyone talk you into skimping on a home inspector.  Certified inspectors earn their fees many times over.  They do more, they deserve more, and — yes — they generally charge a little more. Do yourself a favor… and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve.

Advantages of hiring InterNACHI inspectors:

  • have to pass InterNACHI’s Online Inspector Examination, and re-take and pass it every three years (it’s free and open to everyone, and free to re-take);
  • have to complete InterNACHI’s online Code of Ethics Course (free to take after joining, and self-paced);
  • have to take InterNACHI’s online Standards of Practice Course (free to take after joining, and self-paced);
  • must submit a signed Membership Affidavit;
  • substantially adhere to InterNACHI’s Standards of Practice;
  • abide by InterNACHI’s Code of Ethics;
  • have to submit four mock inspection reports to InterNACHI’s Report Review Committee (for free) before performing their first paid home inspection for a client if the candidate has never performed a fee-paid home inspection previously;
  • within the first year of membership, have to successfully pass the following free online, accredited, and self-paced courses and exams:
    • InterNACHI’s “Safe Practices for the Home Inspector” course,
    • InterNACHI’s “25 Standards Every Inspector Should Know” course,
    • InterNACHI’s “Residential Plumbing Overview for Inspectors” course,
    • InterNACHI’s “How to Perform Residential Electrical Inspections” course,
    • InterNACHI’s “How to Perform Roof Inspections” course,
    • InterNACHI’s “How to Inspect HVAC Systems” course,
    • InterNACHI’s “Structural Issues for Home Inspectors” course,
    • InterNACHI’s “How to Perform Exterior Inspections” course,
    • InterNACHI’s “How to Inspect the Attic, Insulation, Ventilation and Interior” course,
    • InterNACHI’s “How to Perform Deck Inspections” course,
    • InterNACHI’s “How to Inspect for Moisture Intrusion” course, and
    • InterNACHI’s “How to Inspect Fireplaces, Stoves, and Chimneys” course.
  • have to pursue inspection-related training by taking 24 hours of additional accredited Continuing Education each year;
  • have to maintain their Online Continuing Education Log (free), per InterNACHI’s rigorous Continuing Education policy;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s Message Board for exchanging information and tips with colleagues and experts;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s “What’s New” section so that they can keep up with the latest news and events in the inspection industry;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s time-tested Inspection Agreement, which keeps them (and you) away from lawsuits;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s Report Review/Mentoring Service;
  • have to carry E&O Insurance;
  • have access to a real estate agent Hold-Harmless Clause;
  • and have access to many other benefits, training, marketing tools and information to help themselves, as well as consumers and real estate professionals, provided for free by the world’s largest inspector association.
So, the next time you need a home inspector (or need to refer your clients to one), give us a call- you’ll be glad you did.

Goodwin Fire Prescott

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Our home inspection office is located in Prescott Valley, and as we watch the smoke grow each day and hear the planes and choppers flying overhead going to fight the flames, we just want to say that our thoughts are with all of those dealing with this terrible wildfire.  It is so sad to see this, and to hear about those being displaced. We took some food over to the Salvation Army downtown Prescott to help with feeding those in need, but still feel so helpless. No rain in sight, and the winds just keep whipping. So to all those hotshots and firefighting crews that are working so hard to contain the fire we say THANK YOU and please be safe out there!