Sonoran Property Inspections

Home Inspections Prescott, Prescott Valley, Cottonwood, Scottsdale, Arizona

What NOT to Store in the Garage

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When I do a home inspection (Prescott, Prescott Valley, or Scottsdale and Phoenix areas – it doesn’t matter where the garage is located), I often see items stored in the garage that shouldn’t be there. While this information is NOT part of the home inspection report, I figured I would take time now to help educate home owners on storage tips for this area.

Rarely used objects often end up in the attic, basement or garage. But storing your stuff where it seems most convenient isn’t always the best, or safest, idea. Some items are too fragile for these environments, while others could even become dangerous in unregulated conditions.

Take a look at these home storage tips to keep your house and possessions protected.

What to Keep Out of the Garage

For the most part, objects like garden tools or car supplies do fine in the garage. However, fluctuating temperatures make the space off limits for anything that’s too delicate, combustible or that may attract pests.

Some common household items that don’t hold well:

  • Photographs — Moisture, heat and pollutants from your car can cause photos to fade and crinkle over time.
  • Flammables — Sparking engines should be kept far away from potentially leaky propane tanks. Instead of putting them in an enclosed space, always store tanks outside on a flat surface.
  • Perishables — Insects and rodents can make a meal out of almost anything. This includes fabrics, paper and even firewood. Unless you have an outdoor fridge, bring any perishables, even canned food items, indoors.

Basement and Attic Hazards

Attics and basements are bonus storage spaces in many homes, but each comes with some risk from the elements.

In the basement, homeowners need to protect against excess moisture, mold and flooding. Store anything that’s not weatherproof off the ground in a sturdy container.

Attics tend to experience extreme temperature spikes, so anything sensitive that may warp or melt shouldn’t be placed here. Holiday decor, clothing and luggage typically do okay, but it’s better to err on the side of caution.

As a general rule, anything that’s sentimental or financially valuable should be kept safely in the temperature-controlled parts of your home.

 

Home Inspection – Ceiling Fans

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Most of the homes I inspect in Arizona have ceiling fans, and properly installed and maintained ceiling fans can inexpensively cool or warm building occupants.  Like other fans, it is used to provide comfort for building occupants by circulating air within a room.

Fun Facts About Ceiling FansMost household ceiling fans have four or five blades.

  • An adult human cannot be decapitated by a ceiling fan, according to the TV show “MythBusters.”  A powerful, industrial-strength fan might be able to damage a skull or slice a person’s neck, however – so don’t test this myth (just in case – ha).
  • Ceiling fans were first used in the United States in the 1860s. They were powered by a system of belts driven by a stream of running water.
  • Unlike air conditioners, fans do not actually cool the air, which is why they merely waste electricity when they circulate air in an unoccupied room (yes, I am guilty of this sometimes).

Ceiling Fan Components

A ceiling fan is comprised of the following parts:

  • electric motor:  varies with the size of the fan and its application;
  • blades:  typically, two to six spinning, precision-weighted blades made from metal, wood or plastic; industrial fans typically have three blades, while residential models have four or five;
  • blade irons:  connect the blades to the motor;
  • safety cable: on heavy fans, these are required to hold the fan in place in case the support housing fails;
  • flywheel:  connects the blade irons to the motor;
  • ceiling mount:  designs include ball-in-socket and J-hook;
  • downrod:  used where ceiling fans are suspended from high ceilings;
  • motor housing:  protects the fan motor from dust and its surroundings; may also be decorative; and
  • lamps: may be installed above, below or inside the motor housing.

Common Fan Defects

  • The fan falls. A ceiling fan that breaks free from its ceiling mount can be deadly. Fans must be supported by an electrical junction box listed for that use, according to the National Electric Code, and a fan brace box will need to be installed. While a particular junction box might support a fully assembled fan, during operation, it will exert additional forces (notably, torsion) that can cause the support to fail. Homeowners often overlook this distinction by carelessly replacing light fixtures with ceiling fans without upgrading the junction box, which should clearly state whether it’s rated to hold a ceiling fan.
  • The fan wobbles. This is a common and distracting defect that is usually caused when fan blades are misaligned from one another. Specific problems stem from minute differences in the size or weight of individual blades, warping, bent blade irons, or blades or blade irons that are not screwed in tightly enough. The ceiling mount may also be loose. Wobbling is not caused by the ceiling or the particular way that the fan was mounted. Wobbling will not cause the fan to fall, and there have been no such reports. Wobbling can, however, cause light fixture covers or shades to loosen and potentially fall. These items should be securely attached, with all screws tightly set in place. An easy way to tell if the blades are not on the same plane is to hold a yardstick or ruler against the ceiling and measure the distance that the tip of each blade is from the ceiling by manually pushing the blades. A homeowner can carefully bend the misaligned blade back into place. Blades can also be corrected in this way if measurement reveals that they are not equidistant from one another.
  • There is inadequate floor-to-ceiling blade clearance. No part of the fan blades of a residential ceiling fan (usually having four or more blades) should be closer than 7 feet from the floor in order to prevent inadvertent contact with the blades. Downward air movement is maximized when the fan blades are around 8 or 9 feet from the floor. For high ceilings, the fan may be hung to a desired height. Low-profile fan models are available for ceilings that are lower than 8 feet from the floor. Also, fan blades should be at least 18 inches from walls. For commercial ceiling fans (usually having three blades), no part of the fan blades should be closer than 10 feet from the floor in order to prevent inadvertent contact with the blades.  Underwriters Laboratories UL 507 Section 70.2.1 says:

    “The blades of a ceiling-suspended fan shall be located at least 3.05 m (10 feet) above the floor when the fan is installed as intended.”

Underwriters Laboratories makes exceptions if the fan blade edges are thick and the fan is turning slowly.
  • Blades are turning in the wrong direction. In the winter months, the leading edge of the fan’s blades should be lower than the trailing edge in order to produce a gentle updraft, which forces warm air near the ceiling down into the occupied space below. In the summer, the leading edge of the fan’s blades should be higher as the fan spins counter-clockwise to cool occupants with a wind-chill effect. On most models, the fan direction can be reversed with an electric switch located on the outside of the metal housing, but the same effect can be achieved on other models by unscrewing and remounting the fan blades.
  • An indoor fan is not designed for exterior use. Ordinary indoor ceiling fans are unsafe to use outdoors or in humid environments, such as bathrooms.  They will wear out quickly. Fans that are rated “damp” are safe for humid environments, but they, too, should never be used where they might come into contact with liquid water. Only fans that are rated “wet” are safe for such use, as they incorporate features such as all-weather, UV-resistant blades, sealed motors, rust-resistant housing, and stainless steel hardware.
As always, call us if you have any questions!

 

Home Inspection – Windows

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One part of any Phoenix or Prescott area home inspection we do is to look at, and operate, all of the accessible windows. This includes the inspector looking for signs of window seal failure. If multiple-pane windows appear misty or foggy, it means that the seal protecting the window assembly has failed. Let’s take a closer look at how window condensation happens, and what it may mean on a home inspection report.
First of all, Condensation is the accumulation of liquid water on relatively cold surfaces.  Almost all air contains water vapor, the gas phase of water composed of tiny water droplets. The molecules in warm air are far apart from one another and allow the containment of a relatively large quantity of water vapor. As air cools, its molecules get closer together and squeeze the tiny vapor droplets closer together, as well. A critical temperature, known as the dew point, exists where these water droplets will be forced so close together that they merge into visible liquid in a process called condensation.

Double-pane windows have a layer of gas (usually argon or air) trapped between two panes of glass that acts as insulation to reduce heat loss through the window. Other types of gas used in this space have various effects on heat gain or loss through the window. Some windows also have a thin film installed between panes that separates the space between the panes into two spaces, further reducing heat loss and heat gain through the window.

Silica Desiccant
A desiccant is an absorbent material designed to maintain dryness in the space it protects. In a double-paned window, silica pellets inside the aluminum perimeter strip absorb moisture from any incoming air that enters the space between the panes. If not for the silica desiccant, any moisture in the space between the panes would condense on the glass as the glass cools below the dew point temperature.

Silica gel has an immense surface area, approximately 7,200 square feet per gram, which allows it to absorb large amounts of water vapor. As the sealant protecting this space fails over time, increasing amounts of moisture-containing air will enter the space between the panes, and the silica pellets will eventually become saturated and will no longer be able to prevent condensation from forming.

Why Double-Paned Windows Fail:  Solar (Thermal) Pumping
Although double-paned windows appear to be stable, they actually experience a daily cycle of expansion and contraction caused by thermal pumping. Sunlight heats the airspace between the panes and causes the gas there to heat up and expand, pressurizing the space between the panes. At night, the window cools and the space between the panes contracts. This motion acts like the bellows of a forge and is called thermal pumping.
Over time, the constant pressure fluctuations caused by thermal pumping will stress the seal. Eventually, the seal will develop small fractures that will slowly grow in size, allowing increasing amounts of infiltration and exfiltration of air from the space between the panes.

Failure Factors

Windows on the sunny side of a home will experience larger temperature swings, resulting in greater amounts of thermal pumping, seal stress and failure rates.

Vinyl window frames have a higher coefficient of expansion resulting in greater long-term stress on the double-pane assembly, and a higher failure rate. Windows also experience batch failure, which describes production runs of windows, especially vinyl windows, that are defective, meaning that the pane assemblies have been manufactured with seals that have small defects that will cause the window to fail prematurely.

The Nature of Damage

If it’s allowed to continue, window condensation will inevitably lead to irreversible physical window damage. This damage can appear in the following two ways:

  • riverbedding.  Condensed vapor between the glass panes will form droplets that run down the length of the window. Water that descends in this fashion has the tendency to follow narrow paths and carve grooves into the glass surface. These grooves are formed in a process similar to canyon formation.
  • silica haze.  Once the silica gel has been saturated, it will be eroded by passing air currents and accumulate as white “snowflakes” on the window surface. It is believed that if this damage is present, the window must be replaced.

Detecting Failure

Condensation is not always visible. If the failure is recent, a failed window may not be obvious, since condensation doesn’t usually form until the window is heated by direct sunlight. Windows in the shade may show no evidence of failure, so your inspector will disclaim responsibility for discovering failed double-paned windows.

 

Recommendations for Failed Windows

According to industry experts, the glazing assembly can be replaced  approximately 75% of the time.  Occasionally, the sashes must be replaced, and only about 5% of those cases require that the entire window be replaced.

Be aware that there are companies that claim to be able to repair misty windows through a process known as “defogging.”

This repair method proceeds in the following order:

  1. A hole is drilled into the window, usually from the outside, and a cleaning solution is sprayed into the air chamber.
  2. The solution and any other moisture are sucked out through a vacuum.
  3. A defogger device is permanently inserted into the hole that will allow the release of moisture during thermal pumping.

There is currently a debate as to whether this process is a suitable repair for windows that have failed, or if it merely removes the symptom of this failure. Condensation appears between double-paned windows when the window is compromised, and removal of this water will not fix the seal itself. A window “repaired” in this manner, although absent of condensation, might not provide any additional insulation. This method is still fairly new and opinions about its effectiveness range widely. Regardless, “defogging” certainly allows for cosmetic improvement, which is of some value to homeowners. It may also reduce the potential for damage caused by condensation in the form of mold or rot.  Some skepticism exists about the effectiveness and cost effectiveness of this method of repair.

In summary, condensation in double-paned windows indicates that the glazing assembly has failed and needs repair or replacement. Visible condensation can damage glazing and is the main indication of sealant failure.

Fireplace Safety

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It is FINALLY starting to cool off here in Prescott, Arizona!  As a home inspector (providing inspections in the Prescott area as well the Phoenix metro area) I see some fireplaces used in an unsafe manner. So I wanted to use this time to help educate you on what you should and shouldn’t use your fireplaces for, and what type of fireplace fuel is best. Stay safe this holiday season!

Fireplaces and wood stoves are designed to burn only one type of fuel. Used as all-purpose incinerators, these devices can pose the following hazards:

  • Harmful vapors can vent into the living space. Even the most efficient fireplaces will vent directly into the living space while they’re opened and closed for cleaning and refueling, exposing everyone in the house to potentially dangerous fumes.Firewood drying out in the sun
  • Harmful vapors will vent to the outdoors. Most newer fireplaces and wood stoves do an excellent job of funneling smoke and fumes to the outdoors, but the problem doesn’t end there; this pollution persists, contaminating household and environmental air.
  • Burning inappropriate fuel can cause mechanical damage. Chimneys can become lined with residue from inappropriate items, which may lead to a dangerous chimney fire. The fumes from certain items will quickly wear out sensitive components, such as catalytic combustors in wood stoves.

Read the following guidelines to better understand what can and cannot be safely burned in a residential fireplace or wood stove.

What can be burned in a fireplace?

  • dried, cut firewood. An adequate fuel supply will consist of a mixture of hardwoods, such as maple and oak, and softwoods, such as fir and pine. Softwoods ignite quickly and are useful in the early stages of the fire, while hardwoods provide a longer-lasting fire, and are best used after preheating the chimney. Despite the different burning characteristics of hardwoods and softwoods, which can be attributed to differences in density, the heat-energy released by burning wood is the same, regardless of species. To dry out wood, it should be stacked in an open area so the sun can warm the pieces and the breezes can carry away the moisture. Poplar, spruce and other softwoods generally dry quickly, as do wood that has been split small. Adequately seasoned wood has a moisture content of less than 20%, which can be checked using the following indicators:
    • The wood has darkened from white or a cream color to yellow or grey.
    • There are cracks or checks in the end grain.
    • A hollow sound is produced when two pieces of wood are banged together.
    • You can split a piece and feel if the new surface is damp or dry.
    • The wood does not hiss while burning.
    • You can check its moisture content with a moisture meter.Used pallets burn efficiently, but you must be sure they are free from chemical treatment
  • pallets. Generally, pallets are safe to burn in fireplaces, although those that are treated with the fumigant methyl bromide (labeled with the initials MB) are unsafe to burn. Also, pallets may have been exposed to a variety of chemicals while they were in use. Aside from these concerns, pallets produce a hot flame because they’re usually very dry and their segments are thin. Be careful to check for nails while cutting pallets, as they may damage a saw blade. You may also wind up with nails in your ash, which should be disposed of far from roads and driveways.
  • fallen tree limbs. These can generally be collected and used for kindling, provided they have been given time to dry.
  • wood collected from housing developments. If it is truly trash and not someone’s property (including the housing contractor’s), using scavenged wood that has been cleared away for housing developments is good for burning.  Try to obtain it before the non-lumber grade wood is pushed into massive piles and burned as a means of disposal by the contractor.
  • fire logs. These artificial logs burn relatively cleanly and release less ash than their natural wood counterparts.

What should never be burned in a fireplace?

  • painted wood. Paint contains heavy metals, such as lead, chromium and titanium, which are used to make the different colors. These metals, especially lead, can be toxic even in small quantities if inhaled. If you’re unsure if your paint has lead, be sure to consult with your InterNACHI inspector during your next scheduled inspection.
  • pressure-treated wood. Wood is commonly made resistant to fungus and insects through the addition of copper, chromate and arsenic, in a process known as CCA treatment. CCA treatment places roughly 27 grams of arsenic in every 12-foot 2×6, which is sufficient to kill about 250 adults, which is why it is illegal in the U.S. to burn pressure-treated wood. Vaporized CCA wood, known as fly ash, is extremely toxic; in one case, as reported by the American Medical Association, a family was stricken with seizures, hair loss, debilitating headaches, blackouts and nosebleeds from fly ash released when they unknowingly used CCA wood to burn in their fireplace. Even the family’s houseplants and fish succumbed to the toxic fumes.
  • plywood, particleboard, chipboard or OSB. These manmade woods release formaldehyde, and potentially hydrochloric acid or dioxin, when burned. Some states have outlawed the incineration of some or all of these artificial wood products.
  • rotted, diseased or moldy wood. This wood will not burn as long as normal wood, may produce bad smells when burned, and could bring insects into the house.
  • damp wood. Wood that has a moisture content higher than 20% will burn inefficiently and will contribute to a greater accumulation of creosote in the chimney, as well as air pollution.
  • allergenic plants.  Urushiol, which is the chemical that induces the typically minor allergic reaction when skin is exposed to poison ivy, poison sumac or poison oak, is far more dangerous when inhaled. Urushiol is not destroyed by fire and can quickly cause life-threatening respiratory distress if any of these plants are burned.
  • dryer lint. While it’s often used effectively as a fire-starter, lint can contain a wide array of dangerous chemicals that come from your clothes and fabric softener.
  • trash. Never burn household garbage, as it contains a range of potentially hazardous materials and chemicals that react in unpredictable ways when burned together. Newspaper ink, plastics, aluminum foil, plastic baggies, and whatever else constitutes your particular trash can create a deadly chemical cocktail.
  • driftwood. Wood found on the beach of an ocean or salty lake will release salt when burned, which will quickly corrode any metal and etch the glass of a wood stove or fireplace. Catalytic converters are especially vulnerable to salt corrosion. In addition to potential damage to the stove or fireplace, the EPA claims that driftwood releases toxic chemicals when burned.
In summary, use only approved and appropriate fuel to burn in your fireplace or wood stove, because certain items should never be burned because they can cause problems ranging from minor irritation to a hazardous health threat to your family.

Prescott Home Inspection – Electrical Safety

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One area that I look at when doing a home inspection is the electrical system. As a home buyer you want to know that the home you are buying is relatively safe from fire hazards. By hiring a certified professional inspector you can get a little peace of mind when it comes to this important area.  We can help you if you are buying or selling a home in the Scottsdale or Prescott, Arizona area. In the meantime, here are some helpful hints.
Electricity is an essential part of our lives. However, it has the potential to cause great harm. Electrical systems will function almost indefinitely, if properly installed and not overloaded or physically abused. Electrical fires in our homes claim the lives of 485 Americans each year and injure 2,305 more. Some of these fires are caused by electrical system failures and appliance defects, but many more are caused by the misuse and poor maintenance of electrical appliances, incorrectly installed wiring, and overloaded circuits and extension cords.
Some safety tips to remember:
  • Never use anything but the proper fuse to protect a circuit.
  • Find and correct overloaded circuits.
  • Never place extension cords under rugs.
  • Outlets near water should be GFCI-type outlets.
  • Don’t allow trees near power lines to be climbed.
  • Keep ladders, kites, equipment and anything else away from overhead power lines.
Electrical Panels
Electricity enters the home through a control panel and a main switch where one can shut off all the power in an emergency. These panels are usually located in the basement. Control panels use either fuses or circuit breakers. Install the correct fuses for the panel. Never use a higher-numbered fuse or a metallic item, such as a penny. If fuses are used and there is a stoppage in power, look for the broken metal strip in the top of a blown fuse. Replace the fuse with a new one marked with the correct amperage. Reset circuit breakers from “off” to “on.” Be sure to investigate why the fuse or circuit blew. Possible causes include frayed wires, overloaded outlets, or defective appliances. Never overload a circuit with high-wattage appliances. Check the wattage on appliance labels. If there is frayed insulation or a broken wire, a dangerous short circuit may result and cause a fire. If power stoppages continue or if a frayed or broken wire is found, contact an electrician.
Outlets and Extension Cords
Make sure all electrical receptacles or outlets are three-hole, grounded outlets. If there is water in the area, there should be a GFCI or ground-fault circuit interrupter outlet. All outdoor outlets should be GFCIs. There should be ample electrical capacity to run equipment without tripping circuit breakers or blowing fuses. Minimize extension cord use. Never place them under rugs. Use extension cords sparingly and check them periodically. Use the proper electrical cord for the job, and put safety plugs in unused outlets.

Electrical Appliances
Appliances need to be treated with respect and care. They need room to breathe. Avoid enclosing them in a cabinet without proper openings, and do not store papers around them. Level appliances so they do not tip. Washers and dryers should be checked often. Their movement can put undue stress on electrical connections. If any appliance or device gives off a tingling shock, turn it off, unplug it, and have a qualified person correct the problem. Shocks can be fatal. Never insert metal objects into appliances without unplugging them. Check appliances periodically to spot worn or cracked insulation, loose terminals, corroded wires, defective parts and any other components that might not work correctly. Replace these appliances or have them repaired by a person qualified to do so.
Electrical Heating Equipment
Portable electrical heating equipment may be used in the home as a supplement to the home heating system. Caution must be taken when using these heating supplements. Keep them away from combustibles, and make sure they cannot be tipped over. Keep electrical heating equipment in good working condition. Do not use them in bathrooms because of the risk of contact with water and electrocution. Many people use electric blankets in their homes. They will work well if they are kept in good condition. Look for cracks and breaks in the wiring, plugs and connectors. Look for charred spots on both sides. Many things can cause electric blankets to overheat. They include other bedding placed on top of them, pets sleeping on top of them, and putting things on top of the blanket when it is in use. Folding the blankets can also bend the coils and cause overheating.
 
Children
Electricity is important to the workings of the home, but can be dangerous, especially to children. Electrical safety needs to be taught to children early on. Safety plugs should be inserted in unused outlets when toddlers are in the home. Make sure all outlets in the home have face plates. Teach children not to put things into electrical outlets and not to chew on electrical cords. Keep electrical wiring boxes locked. Do not allow children to come in contact with power lines outside. Never allow them to climb trees near power lines, utility poles or high tension towers.
 
Electricity and Water
A body can act like a lightning rod and carry the current to the ground. People are good conductors of electricity, particularly when standing in water or on a damp floor. Never use any electrical appliance in the tub or shower. Never touch an electric cord or appliance with wet hands. Do not use electrical appliances in damp areas or while standing on damp floors. In areas where water is present, use outlets with GFCIs. Shocks can be fatal.
Animal Hazards
Mice and other rodents can chew on electrical wires and damage them. If rodents are suspected or known to be in the home, be aware of the damage they may cause, and take measures to get rid of them.
Outside Hazards
There are several electrical hazards outside the home. Be aware of overhead and underground power lines. People have been electrocuted when an object they are moving has come in contact with the overhead power lines. Keep ladders, antennae, kites and poles away from power lines leading to the house and other buildings. Do not plant trees, shrubs or bushes under power lines or near underground power lines. Never build a swimming pool or other structure under the power line leading to your house. Before digging, learn the location of underground power lines.
Do not climb power poles or transmission towers. Never let anyone shoot or throw stones at insulators. If you have an animal trapped in a tree or on the roof near electric lines, phone your utility company. Do not take a chance of electrocuting yourself. Be aware of weather conditions when installing and working with electrical appliances. Never use electrical power tools or appliances with rain overhead or water underfoot. Use only outdoor lights, fixtures and extension cords. Plug into outlets with a GFCI. Downed power lines are extremely dangerous. If you see a downed power line, call the electric company, and warn others to stay away. If a power line hits your car while you are in it, stay inside unless the car catches fire. If the car catches fire, jump clear without touching metal and the ground at the same time.
MORE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS :
  • Routinely check your electrical appliances and wiring.
  • Hire an InterNACHI inspector. InterNACHI inspectors must pass rigorous safety training and are knowledgeable in the ways to reduce the likelihood of electrocution.
  • Frayed wires can cause fires. Replace all worn, old and damaged appliance cords immediately.
  • Use electrical extension cords wisely and don’t overload them.
  • Keep electrical appliances away from wet floors and counters; pay special care to electrical appliances in the bathroom and kitchen.
  • Don’t allow children to play with or around electrical appliances, such as space heaters, irons and hair dryers.
  • Keep clothes, curtains and other potentially combustible items at least 3 feet from all heaters.
  • If an appliance has a three-prong plug, use it only in a three-slot outlet. Never force it to fit into a two-slot outlet or extension cord.
  • Never overload extension cords or wall sockets. Immediately shut off, then professionally replace, light switches that are hot to the touch, as well as lights that flicker. Use safety closures to childproof electrical outlets.
  • Check your electrical tools regularly for signs of wear. If the cords are frayed or cracked, replace them. Replace any tool if it causes even small electrical shocks, overheats, shorts out or gives off smoke or sparks.
In summary, household electrocution can be prevented by following the tips offered in this guide and by hiring an InterNACHI inspector like Jerry at Sonoran Property Inspections.

Relocating to Prescott? Tips to Make the Move More Eco-Friendly.

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As a Prescott area home inspector, I am here to help you prior to the big move into your new home, and having moved recently myself I know how stressfull and time-consuming a move can be! But rarely do we wonder about the impact the process has on the environment. This is amplified when moving to a smaller house or condominium, and additional decisions have to be made regarding items that must discarded in order to save space.  If we don’t make these decisions deliberately, our choices can generate a lot of trash, and waste energy and natural resources. Fortunately, we have other options so that, when the time comes, we can relocate — along with our stuff — responsibly.

Some measures to consider before moving day:

  • Buy less.  The less you accumulate, the less you will have to discard when it comes time to relocate. Also, fight the urge to be a pack rat by recycling and giving items away as they become obsolete to you. If you put off these decisions until the day you have to relocate, many of the things that you’re on the fence about keeping will likely end up in the trash because you’ll be too preoccupied by the move to put the effort into thoughtful and responsible disposal.
  • Discard items in a responsible manner, rather than merely throwing them away. Non-biodegradable trash doesn’t disappear; it just accumulates in new locations where it contaminates groundwater and soil, off-gasses methane and other greenhouse gases, and overwhelms otherwise useful land. By taking a few extra steps, you can save money, help others, and minimize your impact on the environment.
    • Recycle. With a minimum of effort, you can recycle old magazines and newspapers that you do not want to take with you to your new home. Glass, metal and plastics are also easily recyclable, and you will conserve some of the raw materials and energy required to produce these items by re-offering them. Many of the items you clean out from your home might be recyclable in your community curbside or drop-off recycling program. To determine what items you can recycle, contact your local environmental agency or waste-pickup service.
  • Sort through your belongings and decide what you don’t want to take with you, separating them into defined groups based on how best to dispose of them. For instance, separate your unwanted items that are in good working order, and can be reused by a friend or neighbor, from other items that require special disposal, such as hazardous chemicals or large, bulky items. See the following sections on how to identify items for reuse, recycling and special disposal.

Common recyclables include:

      • cardboard;
      • mixed paper;
      • newspapers;
      • glass bottles and jars;
      • plastic bottles and jugs; and
      • scrap aluminum and cans.

Many items can be dropped off for recycling at nearby locations, such as:

  • plastic grocery bags that are often accepted for recycling at grocery stores;
  • used electronics, such as cell phones and computers, which are collected for recycling at electronics stores, school vocational programs, and by municipal governments;
  • bulky consumer goods.  Your municipality, by special request or at designated times of the year, may collect appliances and other large discards, such as non-working refrigerators and broken furniture.
  • Sell.
    • Neighborhood yard sales are a fun way to get rid of items and make a little extra money.
    • Websites such as eBay, Craigslist and Freecycle provide ways to advertise online, often for free, in order to unload unwanted items.
    • Antiques can be cleaned and sold to antique and consignment shops.
  • Donate.  Try putting items on your curb with a “free” sign.  Or, take them to your local Salvation Army Store, ARC Store, DAV Store, Goodwill, women’s shelter and homeless shelter as the items lose their usefulness to you.  Keep a spare bag in the trunk of your vehicle, and take the reusable items that you run across out to your car.  Before you know it, you will have a full bag to drop off at a thrift store or a collection drive.  Charitable donations to many non-profit organizations are often tax-deductible. Popular donated items include:
    • clothing and footwear;
    •  bedding, curtains and towels;
    • some toiletries;
    • books and magazines, which can be donated to your local school, library, or community or senior center;
    • furniture;
    • kitchenware and small, working appliances;
    • consumer electronics;
    • unwanted entertainment items, such as CDs, DVDs and video games;
    • larger items, such as computers, and stoves and refrigerators;
    • vehicles; and
    • unopened food items, which will be accepted at food banks and shelters.
  • Hire an environmentally conscious moving company. When searching for a professional service, select a competent expert who is concerned about nature and takes active steps in employing environmentally sound practices. Ask the company:
    • Do they encourage the use of used boxes rather than insisting that each customer pay for new
      boxes? An environmentally conscious transporter should be happy to take the materials
      from you after your move to pass on to his or her next customer.
    • Are their vehicles fuel-efficient?  Ethanol-powered trucks are a bonus, although high mile-per- gallon diesel and gasoline trucks are positive choices, too.
    • Moving vehicles may also be fitted with devices that emit a sound to prevent animals from
      wandering into the road. It may seem trivial, but moving vehicles spend a long time on the
      road, and these devices can and do save the lives of many animals. In Australia, they use
      “hopper stoppers” to protect kangaroos.  In much of the rest of the world, deer are a bigger
      problem.
  • If you don’t use a professional moving company, be smart about boxes and packing materials. Rather than buying these items new, which unnecessarily adds to the expense of moving, find them used. In most cases, old boxes work just as well as new boxes. Liquor stores, grocery stores, hardware and other retail stores are usually happy to give away large cardboard boxes they no longer need and would have to otherwise discard or recycle. Calling around first will save you frustration and the emissions of driving around town to individual stores. You can also ask friends and neighbors if they have materials you can have or borrow. Moving boxes are also popular “freebies” on Craigslist. By following this tip, you will have reduced the number of trees that must be chopped down and boxes that must be manufactured. Also, by reusing boxes and packing material, you keep them out of landfills. When you are finished moving, keep the packing materials for future use, or pass them on.
  • Properly dispose of hazardous household items. While cleaning out and packing up the basement, garage or shed, you might run across some products such as cleaners, pesticides and paints, which are corrosive, flammable or otherwise dangerous to the environment and human health, if not disposed of properly. See if your community has special drop-off sites or holds periodic collection days for safe recycling and disposal of these products. Some stores offer free recycling for returned used goods at the point-of-purchase.

Common hazardous substances include:

    • cleaning supplies;
    • art and photographic supplies;
    • spent printer cartridges;
    • leftover paints, stains and varnishes;
    • light bulbs and fluorescent tubes;
    • spent batteries for laptops, digital cameras and other personal electronics;
    • old car batteries;
    • antifreeze;
    • used motor oil; and
    • pesticides and weed killer.

Also, beware of hazardous chemicals that may contain gasoline, oil or other toxins. Local environmental agencies across the country have set up programs for homeowners to trade in their old gasoline-powered lawnmowers and electric gardening equipment. Contact your local solid waste collection outfit or environmental agency to inquire about these programs.

In summary, relocation is often hectic and expensive, but it doesn’t have to damage the environment.  You can also take easy steps to pare down your material belongings and keep them out of the landfill by reducing, reusing and recycling.

 

What is Excellent Customer Service?

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At Sonoran Property Inspections we pride ourselves on not only providing a quality home inspection in Prescott, but also on excellent customer service. We have had real estate agents and their clients tell us that they appreciate the small things we do to make the process of home inspections better for them.

For some, the end goal is when a company “meets expectations”, and that is of course the cornerstone of any successful business. Before you can provide excellent customer service the basic expectations must be regularly met. So what makes customer service go to the next level?  Listening to the needs of the client, responding quickly, offering help over and above the initial need. In short, attention, action, and follow through. Sadly these three things are often missing in the service industry. Just trying to get a call back from some businesses is difficult. I don’t get it! Just call back and tell me you are too busy for more work, but have the courtesy to call back! Sorry for the brief rant, but I can’t tell you how this frustrates me, and I know you feel the same way.

So here is what you can expect from us:

  • We will answer your calls and emails – or if we are helping someone else at the time you call, we promise to return calls and emails within a few hours (not a few days!)
  • If you need a home inspection we will get you scheduled within the ten day time frame in almost all cases – even if it means working 7 days a week to make sure we can get it done.
  • We will schedule your termite inspections for you and you make just one payment to us and we pay the termite contractor. In the Phoenix area we will also schedule a pool inspection for you by a professional pool guy at no extra cost.
  • If you can’t make it to the review after the home inspection we will set up a time to talk to you about the report even if it is after hours. We want to make sure you fully understand the report and will answer all your questions.
  • Need to know who else to call to assist you? We can help with that too. Our job does not end once we deliver the report to you (same day reports by the way) – we are here to help you even after the inspection is done.

So, if you happen to be another service provider in the Prescott area, and you agree with me on the importance of customer service, I would love to hear from you. We are always looking for others that we can refer to a client when they need work done. Just another part of what we would call customer service – let us know if you agree. We’d love to help you.

Home Inspection of Windows

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Windows are one of the things that get looked at when we do a Scottsdale or Prescott home inspection for a buyer or seller. This evaluation of windows determines not only if they open and close properly, but also looks for issues like broken seals or other defects that may need to be addressed or looked at more closely. If you decide to replace defective windows either before or after the sale of the home, here are a few items that may help you understand what is best for you.

First of all, if you are the seller or the buyer and a home inspection reveals defective windows, don’t panic! The cost to repair or replace the window may not be all that bad, and the potential savings in energy even better.

The Potential Energy Payback

The U.S. Department of Energy estimates that the average household spends between $1,500 and $2,500 annually on energy bills, and attributes about 45% of the expense to heating and cooling. With a window replacement project, selecting the right windows can have significant impact not only on the price of the project, but also on the potential for cutting energy expenses, which is especially important for those who intend to remain in their homes for years after the project is completed.

But when it comes to replacement windows, one size does not fit all. Homeowners need expert guidance to select products that offer the best value for their budget, climate, and the orientation of their home with respect to sun and shade. They should also be careful to contract only with installers who are well trained, efficient, and guarantee their work.

Are Replacement Windows the Right Choice?

It’s important to first determine what type of window project is best for your home. Technically speaking, replacement windows are designed to fit inside an existing window frame so that the siding and trim needn’t be disturbed or replaced.

New-construction units have nailing fins and are designed for installation in a rough opening.

Installation of prime windows requires removal of siding and trim around the window, then restoration of the finishes once the window is in place.

If an existing window frame is relatively square and free of rot and other defects, replacement windows can work well and save lots of time and money. But if an existing window has shifted out of square or there are signs of moisture infiltration in the surrounding wall, the old window and surrounding finishes should be removed. This gives the installer a chance to inspect the framing, find and flash the infiltration source, add insulation where necessary, and seal the opening against water and air leakage.

Replacement Window Material Choices

Vinyl
Vinyl replacement windows are a popular choice due to their affordable cost and low transmission of heat and cold air through the frames. They require little or no maintenance, which should always be factored into the value proposition.

There’s wide variation in the quality of vinyl frames and sashes in the market. More dimensionally stable vinyl frames are extruded with matrices of reinforcing cells for greater strength, and have joints that are welded. These features improve the potential for weather-tightness, energy performance, and lasting attractiveness.

One note: Residents of historic districts and certain homeowners’ associations should be advised that vinyl replacement windows may be prohibited and should check with authorities before installing them.

Wood
Wood replacement windows are more expensive than vinyl but offer comparable heat/cold transmission ratings. Wood is a good choice for older, traditional homes and in districts where vinyl and metal are prohibited by code. Though wood frames require routine maintenance, the extra expense can usually be avoided with approved metal or vinyl cladding applied at the time of installation.

Composition or Fiberglass
Fiberglass replacement windows are comparable in price to wood windows, and they boast better dimensional stability than vinyl. They have inherently good heat/cold transmission resistance that can be augmented with foam insulation applied within voids in the extrusions. Fiberglass windows are available in an array of factory-applied colors that require no maintenance.

Aluminum
Aluminum replacement windows are relatively inexpensive but have poor thermal transmission characteristics, especially when frames are constructed without a thermal break. However, they may offer decent value with the right glazing in warm climates. Factory-applied finishes need no maintenance.

Glazing Choices

Along with selecting a frame and sash with high resistance to thermal transfer, the right glazing can have an enormous impact on a replacement window’s energy-saving performance and, therefore, its long-term value. Glass by itself is not a particularly good insulator, but most replacement window suppliers offer a number of glazing options that can double or triple energy performance, in comparison to single glazing.

Selecting Replacement Windows Based on Orientation

ENERGY STAR, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s program to help consumers and businesses conserve energy, makes some very specific recommendations for window U-value and SHGC ratings with respect to their orientation toward the sun:

In cold climates:

  • South-facing walls: Shaded windows should have a higher SHCG for more passive heat gain in winter and lower U-values to reduce heat loss. Unshaded south-facing windows should have lower SHGC to prevent excessive heat gain in summer.
  • East- and west-facing windows should have lower SHGC ratings.
  • North-facing windows should have the lowest U-value possible; SHGC ratings are unimportant.

In warm climates:

  • East-, west- and south-facing windows should have low SHGC and should be shaded to prevent excessive heat gain.
  • All windows should have low U-values to minimize heat loss and reduce air-conditioning loads.

Go by the Numbers

For guidance in selecting the best values in replacement windows, analyze and compare the ratings found on the NFRC/ENERGY STAR labels on the products offered within your budget range.

Lots of info here, sorry if it is overwhelming, but all windows are clearly not the same, so ask your local expert to help you, and then enjoy those new windows and hopefully the energy you will save in the long run.

What Really Matters in a Home Inspection

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Buying a home in the Prescott area?

The process can be stressful. A home inspection is supposed to give you peace of mind but, depending on the findings, it may have the opposite effect. You will be asked to absorb a lot of information from your inspector over a short period of time.  Your inspection will entail a written report, including checklists and photos, and what the inspector tells you during the inspection review. All of this combined with the seller’s disclosure and what you notice yourself can make the experience overwhelming. What should you do?

Relax!

Home inspectors are professionals, and as a certified member of InterNACHI, you can trust that we are among the most highly trained in the industry. Most of your inspection will be related to maintenance recommendations and minor imperfections. These are good to know about.

However, the issues that really matter will fall into four categories:

  1. major defects, such as a structural failure;
  2. conditions that can lead to major defects, such as a roof leak;
  3. issues that may hinder your ability to finance, legally occupy, or insure the home if not rectified immediately; and
  4. safety hazards, such as an exposed, live buss bar at the electrical panel.

Anything in these categories should be addressed as soon as possible. Often, a serious problem can be corrected inexpensively to protect both life and property (especially in categories 2 and 4).

Most sellers are honest and are often surprised to learn of defects uncovered during an inspection. It’s important to realize that a seller is under no obligation to repair everything mentioned in your inspection report. No house is perfect. Keep things in perspective.

And remember that homeownership is both a joyful experience and an important responsibility, so be sure to call on your InterNACHI Certified Professional Inspector® at Sonoran Property Inspections to help you devise an annual maintenance plan that will keep your family safe and your home in top condition for years to come.